Spain Formal & Casual Dining

Spain Formal Dining

Mugaritz – Not all of today's ultramodern chefs have a natural-tasting cuisine. But at Mugaritz, Andoni Luis Aduriz has managed to develop a cuisine that relies on natural ingredients, while utilizing cutting-edge culinary technique to prepare them. His dishes typically incorporate some type of herbal infusion, and the subtle nature of their flavor sets the stage for a thoughtful and subtle cuisine. His repetoire of dishes isn't limited to local Basque ingredients—he will step out of the region and feature ingredients that you wouldn't unusually find in a restaurant located a few miles from San Sebastian. In late January when root vegetables were in season, he served a delicious dish of yuca cooked in truffle juice and sesame, and layered with taro and winter herbs; foie gras and yuca in a consommé made from date-stones, and veal cheeks cooked sous vide for 35 hours and served with “pepper tears,” one of the greatest dishes in cuisine today. Considering that the scope of his cuisine is more in line with what a one- or two-star restaurant would serve, the fact that I have given it the highest rating in Spain is telling. An important restaurant, and one that people should return to at least every other year in order to see how Aduriz is progressing. He is a chef who is a candidate for three stars. A- 

Roast Escalope of Foie Gras Served on a Charcoal Grill with Crystallized Yuca in a Date-Stone Consommé and Marigold Flowers from Andoni Luis Aduriz

Martin Berasategui - There are two schools of thought about this restaurant. One group of people claim it's the best restaurant in Spain. Another group claim that it has the three-star blues, and that it was better when they only had two stars and were striving for three. My visit last May was enjoyable—a few things were top notch, including a delicious poached egg, and a hearts of raw vegetable salad which was the best dish of our meal, but the cuisine was slightly precious and Beresetegui seemed to be playing it a bit safe. What some had described as a modern rearticulation of Basque cuisine seems to have been suppressed for something more international in style. This should get a higher score than Mugaritz, and the fact that it doesn’t speaks volumes about the place. B+

Warm Vegetable Hearts Salad with Seafood, Cream of Farmer’s Lettuce, and Iodinized Juices

Zuberoa – Hilario Arbelaitz is the classicist among the modern chefs who are working in Spain's San Sebastian region. For starters he will serve you an amazingly rich chestnut cream with a foie gras mold and pheasant cappuccino, or a bowl of lobster with creamy rice that is among the richest dishes you will ever eat. But what sets Zuberoa apart from other restaurants is Arbelaitz's roasting skills. I don’t think there is a chef in Spain who can roast a young lamb or a suckling pig as well as Arbelaitz, and when we visited his restaurant last May they were both outstanding. Not the type of place where you would order a tasting menu. It's an old fashioned three-course affair. But you will leave absolutely stuffed from the large portions of super-rich food. B+

Creamy Rice and Lobster from Zuberoa 

Arzak - My recent meal at Arzak was not up to the level of a meal I had in October 2003. Of course at that meal Elena Arzak was in the kitchen, and this time she was at home on the verge of having her first child. Still, a few things were great. Her oysters in rice paper was delicious and one of the best oyster dishes anywhere, and the Arzak “Flower Egg” with truffle oil and mushrooms is still the best egg dish anywhere. But other dishes like the turbot with pistachios were bland, and the sauce that they pour on the lamb loin with a coffee veil was excessively salty. Down from A- from my October '03 visit. Maybe things will return to normal when Elena is back behind the stoves on a full-time basis. Terrific wine list but it's starting to get a bit picked over. B

Arzak’s Pigeon with Stewed Garlic and Yellow and Orange Basque Peppers

Kaia-Kaipe – The small Basque fishing village of Getaria always seems sleepy. I’ve been there three times and you hardly see a soul walking around. But what you will find there are a number of restaurants that have long charcoal grills outside, with rather large specimens of the local turbot cooking on the grill. Suffice it to say that the fish tastes as glorious as it looks, and you will be served huge white chunks of the warm, sweet meat. One of the great casual regional dining experiences in Europe. B 

The Magnificent Turbot at Kaia-Kaipe

El Bulli – If you could only think your food instead of having to eat it. Unfortunately, dining is a stickier proposition, and most people find that a purely cerebral experience leaves them cold. That’s what makes going to El Bulli different. You have to alter the expectations that you normally bring to a meal, and discard the notion that dining should contain a strong sensual component. Simply put, if you want your meal to taste good, I doubt you will enjoy El Bulli. However, if you approach the restaurant with an open mind, and are willing to re-evaluate what you normally eat, then you can probably take something positive away from the experience. If Ferran Adria was interested in offering a cuisine that was both intellectual and delicious, this would probably be the greatest restaurant in the world. But that doesn’t seem to be where his interest lies, and that means the El Bulli experience is probably somewhat more challenging than people would like it to be. I’m going again in a few weeks, and maybe his direction will have changed once again. A+ for the technique which makes it worth a trip all by itself. And C- for the taste. So I will split the baby and give it a rating for the totality of the experience. B-

El Raco d'en Freixa - Highly rated by Gourmetour as being one of the top ten places in Spain, this Barcelona restaurant disappointed and did not seem to warrant the high rating. The cuisine is neither inventive nor executed in a way that one would find compelling. Not a bad meal, and I could easily eat there again. Especially since Barcelona isn’t teeming with top-flight restaurants where they cook in a modern style. But if it was accurately described in the guidebook, I would never have booked in the first place. C+ 

Akelare - My meal here was a disaster. Along with La Pyramide in Vienne, and Tru in Chicago, this wins the award for most overrated restaurant I’ve been to in years. The food was so lackluster that I didn’t even bother to write a review of the restaurant. And they brought us three bottles wine in a row that had suffered heat damage. C-

Spain Casual Dining

Casa Julian - The town of Tolosa is about a 30-minute drive from San Sebastian. Other than being settled by the Romans because it was on the trade route, Tolosoa’s main distinction is that it’s located on the banks of the Oria River which gives the town a pleasant feel. But who would think that in this small town you would find two of the top chuleta restaurants in all of Spain. Chuletas are rib steaks that come from the local Basque cattle. And at Casa Julien (whose location remained a mystery although I drove around the town at least six times until, to our good fortune, a police cruiser guided us there), they cook them over natural charcoal. What a joint the place was. Located in the back of a garage, there were decades' worth of soot and grease on the walls from the open hearth cooking that's done at the front of the dining room. Delicious steaks, and highly recommended for the local atmosphere. B-

Chuletas on the Grill at Casa Julien

Rafa's – This small restaurant on an interior street of Roses, Spain, became famous when Ferran Adria revealed that this is where he likes to take in a meal when he isn’t manning the stoves at El Bulli. Of course, that immediately meant that many of the international clientele who come to Roses for the specific purpose of dining at El Bulli arrange to have a meal at Rafa. The simplest thing is to just let Rafa send out a tasting menu of whatever is fresh that day. He will likely send out a few different types of gambas and langoustines, some Manila clams, and a white fish of your choice like sole or monkfish. B+ 

Santa Maria - Nice little tapas bar on Barcelona's Comerc Carrer that serves a modern-style tapas cuisine based around using organic ingredients. You can have a nice plate of sautéed foie gras with date purée, and an order of gravlax with potato foam and dill. Makes for a good lunch or a good light dinner if one had a large lunch that day. B+ 

Alona Barri - If you walk a few blocks across the river from the central shopping district of San Sebastian, you will be in the city’s affluent Gros district. There, within a block of each other, sit two of the greatest tapas bars in Spain. I understand that Alona Barri, a block further inland than its gastronomic competition, is the place that pioneered the gourmet pintxo in the 1980s. You will feast on modern tapas renditions of oysters, foie gras, or a spoon of eggplant purée with yogurt mousse and a shot glass of pea soup on the side. Very friendly welcome and the owner is a jovial sort. B+

Bar Bergara - Of the two upscale tapas bars that are located in the Gros District of San Sebastian, I have a slight preference for Alona Barrie over Bar Bergara, possibly because the assortment at Bergara are a bit more traditional. But you won’t go wrong with either place. B

Cal Pep - Famous Barcelona tapas bar that specializes in seafood. You sit at a long narrow counter, and there are usually a few people standing against the wall behind you waiting so they can take your seat. Just order a tasting menu, and they will bring you 10 to 12 dishes of whatever is fresh that day. It isn’t limited to fish; when I was there they brought us a bowl of delicious Catalan sausage and beans. There’s a small dining room in the back with three tables that hold larger parties and they have an excellent list of top Spanish wines. B

Rekondo - Simple eatery on the hill overlooking San Sebastian with a wine cellar that Rioja fanatics dream about. The food is nothing to write home, about and if you go you should stick to things like clams and rice and grilled steaks. But the wine list is amazing and is loaded with well-priced bottles of Rioja from the 1950s and some even older than that. A+ for the wine list and C for the food. B-

Comments

[Marci Schwartz]

Can you tell me the exact address and phone number of Mugaritz and how to make a reservation?

[mirenre]

The address is:

RESTAURANTE MUGARITZ
OTZAZULUETA BASERRIA ALDURA ALDEA Nº20
20100 ERRENTERIA
GIPUZKOA
BASQUE COUNTRY (SPAIN)

TLF: 0034 943 518343/ 0034 943 522455
EMAIL: [email protected]
WEB: www.mugaritz.com

[Aaron]

Do you know anything about the quality of the food at the restaurant in the El Bulli hotel?

[Steve Plotnicki]

Sorry nothing at all.

[Kris Prasad]

Very interesting analysis of restaurants that I concur with mostly. Mugaritz is truly unusual and your A- is what I would give. Spot on for Rekondo (Sanse)and El Raco..(Barcelona). I would add that in El Raco the service was indifferent. Arzak , Alona-Bari and Kaia-Kaipe, I will know in a few days time when I get there next week. But Akelarre ( a solid A in my book), I totally disagree. Far away the best meal I had last year, so much so I had to return for lunch. The chef at my request made us Becada (reserved night before) and the Barolo of Bartolo Mascarello was splendid accompaniment. That does not mean you are wrong--we just had different experiences. As for Zuberoa, well perhaps your rating is a touch generous..the menu is not very balanced so you feel loaded. That is a minus. You left off Fagollaga, which was superb (A- or B+) and which I am returning to next week.

[gagit]

I wished i had read this review before my trip to El Bulli. I agree with you in almost all counts , however , i can not rate this restauarant in the B category. I can certainly rate his technique a A like you, but I have to throw the bath water away with the baby and after 30 dishes of absolutely no substance or food value, black sesame with miso? , this meal can only be rated above a F by only those who cannot accept thay have been had by Ferran.

[Rojario]

My cousin told me about Cal Pep. This lovely eatery serves up wonderful regional cuisine to tourists. Local people too go there for delicious dining. In the main course they had seafood with some vegetable delicacies. They said the service was splendid.

[generic cialis]

I didn't know it but Arzak was awarded the Universal Basque award for "adapting gastronomy, one of the most important traditions of the Basque Country, to the new times and making of it one of the most innovative of the world" 23jj

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