New York Japanese Dining

Sushi Yasuda – Many people think sushi is about the fish. But at Sushi Yasuda, my sushi restaurant of choice, the key to greatness lies in the rice. Of course that isn’t to say that they don’t use top-quality fish at Yasuda. On an average day, they might serve you five to seven different varieties of tuna or salmon, or three or four different types of yellowtail, as well as superb specimens of numerous other fish that are fresh that day. But what makes this restaurant special is the way Yasuda can grab 264 grains of creamy and firm, slightly warmer than room temperature short-grain rice, and pair it with perfectly trimmed slices of cool fish. Of course, the best way to experience this treat is to sit at the counter with Yasuda-san himself and let him organize your meal. His timing in the way he serves up each group of fish is impeccable, as if he’s performing a Mozart concerto. Even his delivery is unique. He will pick up two or three pieces at a time and use an overhand motion that would make Hideki Nomo envious. Make sure you ask him to end your meal with two of my favorite pieces—West Coast Oysters and Santa Barbara Uni, both served on sushi rice, with a squeeze of fresh lemon and a small sprinkling of coarse sea salt. Absolutely delicious. A

Hamachi, Kanpachi, Otoro, and Uni at Sushi Yasuda

Kuruma Zushi - It's about the fish. It's not about the rice, it's the fish. Fish is the thing at this second-floor Midtown Japanese. You will get expertly cut, large slices of the best-quality sashimi money can buy, much of it flown in directly from Tokyo’s Tsukiji fish market. And they will serve you a tremendous assortment of it, too. But since I prefer sushi to sashimi, this restaurant is not my favorite when it comes to NYC’s elite Japanese dining. But the fish.... Outrageously expensive. A-

Masa - Okay, so I am going to go against the tide of reviewers and say that I think there is a bit of the emperor’s new clothes to Masa. In fact, possibly more than a bit. Of course, that is relative to what it costs to eat at Masa. Maybe if it cost only slightly more than the omakase at a place like Sugiyama or Jewel Bako, I would feel differently about it. But at $350, more than twice as much as the others, that's where I come down. Sure they have the best-quality fish in town, but they won’t serve you the same mountain of top-quality sashimi that you get at a place like Kuruma Zushi. They were also stingy with the cooked food when I was there for dinner. And I can't talk about the place without mentioning that the service situation at the sushi bar is ridiculous. It gave me a backache just watching them serve the food. I will go back eventually because so many people have been raving about it, but three or four of my friends have gone and each of them had the same exact experience. People who used to frequent his restaurant in L.A. tell me that it was a superior dining experience to what he is doing at the Time Warner Center. A-

Jewel Bako - This restaurant has its ardent supporters who say it is the best Japanese restaurant in the city. My experiences have never quite matched their claim, although I have to admit I have dined very well there. The way to go is to sit at the counter at the back of the dining room and let them serve you an omakase. And the owner of the restaurant, the amazingly entertaining Jack Lamb, will match the dishes with an assortment of wines by the glass. It's an experience that is somewhere between one of the top sushi restaurants in town and a place like Sugiyama where they serve a classic omakase. B+ 

Jewel Bako’s Fresh Lobster Soup with Mushrooms and Miso

Sushi of Gari - Chef Gari has his very own style of sushi cuisine. You might get some tuna with a dab of flavored mayonnaise, or salmon with a slice of lightly sautéed tomato folded over it, and hamachi with a small salad and pine nuts on top. I find his approach quite delicious although the “it’s all about the fish” crowd find Gari’s obsession with accoutrements somewhat of a negative. The place is always packed, especially at the counter, where Gari serves up his magical creations one piece at a time. I have to give a special mention to his uni hand roll which is absolutely delightful. B

“Gari's Choice” at Sushi of Gari

Megu - If you would like to indulge yourself with numerous types of toro, or feast on top quality Kumamotos, and most importantly, tantalize your liver with skewers of Kobe beef, and not mind dropping $200+ a person in the process, then Megu is the place for you. There are a few downsides. The restaurant is so bustling that the kitchen doesn't always give the food the level of care that it needs. And they play music at such an excruciatingly loud level that you can hardly have a conversation with the people at your table. But those Kobe beef skewers are delicious, and a dish of chawan mushi with foie gras was one of the highlights of my dining year. B

Kobe Beef Skewers flavored four ways at Megu

Sushi Seki - Sushi of Gari spinoff serving sushi “Gari style,” which is high-quality fish dressed up with special sauces and various cooked vegetables. Not quite as good as Gari, but it will certainly do in a pinch if one can’t get a table at Gari. And it's certainly less cramped. B-

Tuna with Japanese Mayonnaise, BBQ Eel with Avocado, and Salmon with Sautéed Tomato at Sushi Seki

Matsuri - More of a party place than a serious restaurant and, in reality, just a bigger version of Bond Street, which shares the same management. They do a few things well, and the seared toro they served us was top notch. I usually avoid these kinds of places as they are full of Europeans who have read about it in some style magazine, as well as secretaries who have come into town from Long Island for a hip night out. In spite of that, the food is better than you might expect. A fun place to have dinner if you are having that kind of a night out, if you know what I mean. B-

Blue Ribbon Sushi - After years of hearing raves from various sources, I went down to Sullivan Street to check this place out the other night. What a disappointment. The quality of the sushi is B level at best (better than places like Haru though), and the cooked food was just slightly higher than what you would get at a place like Tomoe. We even sent back the scallops "dynamite" as they were too fishy. Since a good Japanese meal is so ingredient intensive, I don't see the point of going to places that are below the very top tiers. C

Bar Masa - What a drop-off in quality between Masa and Bar Masa. For anyone who thinks they are getting a B version of Masa, forget it. Some interesting dishes, but this is very average cuisine and the sushi is nearly generic in quality. I would think that Masa might be somewhat embarrassed to be associated with this place. C

Tomoe Sushi - The price may be better than most sushi places but it doesn't come without a cost. Fish that is more variable in quality than the better places in town and inartful slicing are two issues that plague Tomoe. Given the number of excellent choices for sushi in town, why go here? C-

                              Restaurants Reviewed in Prior Years

Nobu - Maintains good quality despite operating multiple locations. I'll never complain about having dinner at Nobu. B+

Sugiyama - Classical omakase. If you're there on a night when the ingredients are top notch, your dinner wil be superb. B+

Comments

[Ryan]

wow... you've been alot of restaurants for sure.
your reviews are pretty interesting..
but i don't know about your reviews when it comes down to japanese restaurants.
especailly sushi of gari with wrong descriptions of sushi (one with salad is Tai which is japanese snapper, and tuna comes with tofu dressing not mayonnaise!)
with some of disagreement with my own, overall review i pretty much repect...

[Term Paper]

On an average day, they might serve you five to seven different varieties of tuna or salmon, or three or four different types of yellowtail, as well as superb specimens of numerous other fish that are fresh that day.I will go there in average day.

[jordan 3]

Just because someone doesn't love you the way you want them to,doesn't mean they don't love you with all they have. Do you understand?

[generic cialis]

Sushi Yasuda is one of the most delicious meals in the world, I have been reading about the Japanese food, I think that it us so cool,thanks for sharing!Sushi of Gari is also good!22dd

[herbal sexual enhancement]

That is quite an opinion. I agree on how you tagged these dishes.

[RAMSES BORGES]

Please anyone sugestions of some good sushi in New Jersey?
I only like one place...

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