Maison Rousseau - Joyous oyster bar in Lyon’s Les Halles. Rub elbows with the locals and feast on huge platters of Belons and Fin de Claires, steaming pots of mussels served in a variety of sauces, and a terrific soupe de poissons that will remind you of the fish soup you can find in a coastal town. End your meal with a half round of Mère Richard’s perfectly ripe Saint-Marcellin. A restaurant that evokes the pleasure of eating in France. A-
Belons and Fins de Claires at Maison Rousseau
La Reserve "Chez Loulou" - Over the last 20 years, I have taken more meals at this Cros de Cagnes restaurant than at any other restaurant in France. First from the deft hand of Loulou himself, and then from the buoyant Eric Campo after he and his brothers purchased the restaurant almost a decade ago. Eric will serve you the best soupe de poissons in France (I usually take three bowls it is so good), excellent quality grilled or steamed fish, and top-quality grilled meats which are supplied to them by Paris's Boucherie Marbeuf. Michelin awarded them a star this year and they deserve it. A-
Chez Georges – Classic Parisian bistro on the rue du Mail just off the Place des Victoires. Bernard now runs the place, his father Georges having opened the bistro in the 1930s. They serve all the bistro classics: charcuterie, plump asparagus in season, stews, braises, grills, etc. I usually start with a delicious crock of of rilletes with some vinegary cornichons, and then move on to grilled rib lamb chops served with delicious haricots vertes. Good little wine list full of choice Burgundies and a few good Rhone wines as well. Charming greeting from Bernard. B
Chez L'Ami Jean - Ex-second at La Regalade takes over this classic Basque bistro on the rue Malar. He immediately invigorates the menu by offering a Regalade-inspired take on traditional Basque cuisine. And while not quite up to Regalade standards, the influence has definitely paid off. During a rather large lunch last June, I had a delicious lobster bisque with pistachios, some terrific homemade porchetta in a light mustard sauce, and some well-braised beef cheeks with pommes purée. I wish the price point was a tad higher; I’d love to see what they would do if they were preparing a slightly more ambitious cuisine. B-
Braised Beef Cheeks with Pommes Purée at Chez L’Ami Jean
Timgad – I think the North African dining scene in Paris is not as good as it was 10 years ago. But given the choice today, Timgad seems to be doing the best job. The tagines are pretty decent, if lacking the type of intensity I used to find at Charly de Bab El Oued when they were open. And the mechoui is very good. But where I really find them lacking is in the boullion that you douse your couscous with—not the full-flavored, highly spiced lamb broth that I like. Being located in the 17th arrondissement means the cliente is fairly posh for a North African restaurant. B-
La Cave - I've eaten a few dozen meals at this small restaurant just off the rue d'Antibes in Cannes. The menu is chock-full of Provencal treats. The tomato tart with basil, or the assiette de farci (an assortment of various local vegetables that are stuffed with minced pork), or a salad topped with a round of warmed Saint Marcellin are all superb. Mains are heavy on meat and duck dishes, as well as various Provencal stews that are specials of the day. My favorite meal is an order of stuffed cabbage, three small leaves stuffed with minced pork and oozing with butter, and then sometimes a fresh goat cheese omelet or in season, scrambled eggs with finely grated truffles. Excellent wine list that is heavy in wines from Provence. Mark the owner, an old friend by now, always has an old bottle of Bandol for me that he has kept off of the list. B-
L'Entregdu - It’s a testament to Yves Camdeborde that La Régalade has spawned so many spin-off bistros. At the far reaches of the 17th arrondissement, you will find this sympathetic bistro that always has a carefully braised stew on the menu. Too bad the cooking is not quite as good as Camdeborde’s; what you end up with is a version of Regalade lite. C+
L’Entredgdeu’s Oxtail Daube Served on Pommes Purée
La Grille – Have you ever heard of a beurre blanc specialist? Well, at La Grille they specialize in serving a luscious version of the sauce with either scallops or a giant turbot grilled for two. On my last visit in the summer of 2003, I didn’t find the turbot up to the standards of my prior visits. Classic bistro décor, but not posh like some of the other classic bistros. C+
La Meuniere - The best bouchon in Lyon that I've been to. I could eat the whole bowl of the fritons (pieces of fried duck skin) they give you at the beginning of the meal as a way to whet your appetite. But then they would be hauling me off on a gurney by the end of the meal. You also have to save room for the “Assiete Lyonaisse” with various charcuterie, salads and even a large crock of herring in oil. It’s the main dishes where I find the bouchon concept falling short. When main courses cost 13-16 euros, the quality isn’t going to be the greatest. I find this is a category of dining that is in decline. C+
Le Severo - Teeny wine bar/meat specialist in the 14th arrondissement. They served us excellent rillettes and possibly the best boudin noir I’ve ever had. But the grilled meats left something to be desired. I am not sure that the beef in Paris has ever recovered from their mad cow scare. Great list of wines on the blackboard. C
Bavette with Pommes Frites at Le Severo
Oum el Banine – Second-tier Moroccan in a residential part of the 16th arrondissement. More of a neighborhood place than most of the other North African restaurants in Paris seem to be. Other than an excellent tagine of lamb with prunes and almonds, the rest of the food was on the ordinary side, and I see no reason to book here instead of places like Timgan or Mansouria. C
Au Petit Tonneau - Charming old school bistro on the rue Surcouf. Terrific omelets and brouilles, often with champignons. Other bistro classics including a slow braise of the day. An easy choice for lunch or a very casual dinner. C
Scrambled Eggs with Mushrooms at Au Petit Tonneau
Cafe des Federations – Probably the most famous of the Lyonnaise bouchons because of the review of the restaurant in the original Food Lover’s Guide to France, by Patricia Wells. Really a pork lover’s delight and most of the people having lunch are eating the andouilette. I preferred La Meuniere as the price point is slightly higher, and the level of quality follows suit. C-
A.O.C. - The idea of a restaurant in Paris serving A.O.C. ingredients is a good one. Unfortunately, in spite of this restaurant's name they aren’t doing that here. Rather, you get the occasional A.O.C. product, but the rest of the time you get a C-level cuisine dedicated to the tradition of artisanal products instead of the vrais McCoy. D+
Le Garet – Tame for a Lyonaisse bouchon. I had lunch there back in January, and it was more like an ordinary bistro than a bouchon. Not objectionable in any way, just nothing special. My bavette with shallots was predictably tough. D
L'Alsaco – Alsatian near the Gare de Nord that seems to have suffered some damage by claims that there were National Front meetings being held on the premises. I visited last January and the food had deteriorated considerably from prior visits. Even my choucroute was bland, and the sausages were less than the best quality. And the wine list, which always had some older Alsatian gems on it, now seemed ordinary. It’s a shame because it was my favorite Alsatian in Paris. D
Pinxo – Alain Dutournier of Carré des Feuillants and Au Trou Gascon fame has opened this Atelier de Robuchon–style tapas bar in partnership with the owner of L’Ami Louis. What Dutournier has come up with is nothing more than international hotel food that is masquerading as French-influenced tapas. Truly a place for the tourists. D
Maison Aubrac – This Auvergnat restaurant on the rue Marbeuf, and just off the Champs Elysee, is based on a great concept—feature the famous beef of the Aubrac and serve various cuts of steak with large portions of aligot and pommes frites, plus a menu of Auvergnat classics for people who aren’t in the mood for steak. Add an extensive wine list that is fairly well priced, and you have all of the ingredients for a successful restaurant. Too bad the beef is so lousy here. That’s right, lousy. Two different steaks last year were tough to the point where they were nearly inedible. Go eat elsewhere if you can. D
Restaurants Reviewed in Prior Years
L'Ami Louis - Over-the-top Parisian luxury bistro. Great roast chicken and cote de boeuf. Pay the bill and go directly to your cardiologist's office. A
Tetou - Juan-les-Pins bouillabaisse specialist in a chic fish shack. Soulful bowls of soup with langoustine will set you back 70 euros. Well worth it. A-
Richerenches Community Center - A truffle omelet at the community lunch after the Saturday market in this Provencal town is the best 20 euros you will ever spend. C+
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