Of all the restaurants featuring modern cuisine in America, Moto is clearly the most controversial. Most of today’s young chefs who are working in the avant garde genre prepare cuisines that are derivative of the famous modern Spanish chefs like Adrià, Roca, Adoni, and Beresetegui. But Moto’s chef/owner, Homaru Cantu, has tried to avoid that model, and as a result he marches to the beat of his own drummer. Cantu is also interested in created entirely new cooking and dining apparatus, as well as creating new techniques, and that results in the restaurant serving a few dishes that you won't see anywhere else. Even the décor and ambience of Moto are different from your usual high-end restaurant. Modern, casual, with chill out music playing in the background, it’s more like eating at Moromoto in Philadelphia than Per Se or Charlie Trottter’s.