Paris Formal Dining

Pierre Gagnaire - A combination of one of the world’s greatest and most frustrating dining experiences. At a recent meal, Gagnaire served us two courses so stunning that they were easily the best dishes I ate on my entire trip. But the three courses that preceded them were more in line with what you would get from a low two-star restaurant. If I could focus on the great dishes for a moment, when Gagnaire is on he will send out truffles three ways—with chestnuts, with a Jerusalem artichoke purée, and with a small gateau de foie blonds. It is in those instances where Gagnaire will lead you to discover a symphony of textures and flavors that you couldn't experience at another restaurant. But when he misses he is so wide of the mark that it is hard to believe the food is cooked by the same chef. Less than three-star service and a poor wine list add to one’s irritation. But those great dishes…. A

Pierre Gagnaire's Scallops in Green Apple Soup with Cornmeal Crackers Spiced with Ginger

L'Ambroisie - There is a reason why people rave over this ornately decorated jewel box in the Place de Vosges, with many of them calling it the greatest restaurant in Paris. Bernard Pacaud is the last great nouvelle cuisine chef, and he still cooks with the same passion and intensity that diners could find at the height of the era. And while I can appreciate why people feel that way about his cooking, my enthusiasm doesn’t run quite as high. Pacaud’s cuisine is a bit staid for my palate. Sure you will be served the best ingredients in Paris—the taste of a slightly warmed oyster topped with watercress mousse and osetra caviar still lingers in my mouth, and a tranch of turbot lacquered with a spice crust was delicious. But I find that his cuisine is missing a cerebral component and an excitement factor that can be found at other three-star restaurants like Arpège and Pierre Gagnaire. A- 

L’Ambroisie’s Warm Oyster with Watercress Mousse and Osetra Caviar served in a Cool Shell

Alain Ducasse (at the Plaza Athenee) - They do a very good job with a slightly dated cuisine at Ducasse’s flagship restaurant in Paris. The service is a bit off-putting as they seem to be geared to cater to a less knowledgeable clientele. But the ingredients are top notch and the preparations are honest. The house signature dish, langoustine with osetra caviar in a lemon nage, is one of the great signature dishes in haute cuisine today and should be more widely known. The décor, really just a partition in a hotel ballroom, looks makeshift. Excellent wine list that is very well priced. A-

Arpege - A recent meal was surprisingly lackluster. But that’s how it is when your cuisine has been pared down to bare bones minimalism, and it relies on perfect ingredients and the expert balancing of flavors by the kitchen. It was a shame, too, because I had eaten so well here in the past, but this time it was not to be. Dishes I had spectacular versions of in the past, like the maple syrup egg and the gratin of sweet onions and parmesan cheese, did not inspire the same types of oohs and aahs they had inspired in the past. Not even the famed sauce vin jaune moved me, and I think it’s one of the great sauces in all of French cuisine. I've had A+ meals here but this was not up to that level. B+

Slow-Grilled Monkfish with a Moulinaise Mustard Sauce and Assorted Mushrooms

Ledoyen – In a beautiful mansion off the Champs Elysee, this formal restaurant seems old-fashioned compared to the relaxed ambience you find in other Michelin three-star restaurants like Arpège and Troigros. Christian Le Squer’s cooking befits the environment, with dishes like the St. Pierre dusted with truffles and served in an emulsified shellfish broth, and a sweetbread “kebab” that had chives threaded through it. But ultimately there is nothing remarkable about the food and it makes the experience unforgettable. The service was very stiff and formal, and the sommelier is one of the off-putting characters in French cuisine today. B+

Taillevent – This restaurant has been unsettled ever since Philip Legendre left to become the chef at Le Cinq in the Georges V hotel. First he hired Michael Del Burgo and when that didn’t work out, he replaced him with Alain Solivares who he hired away from Les Elysees. The basic problem at Taillevent seems to be that owner Jean-Claude Vrinat tries to impose the “Taillevent style” on his chefs. While that might have worked 10 years ago or more with chefs like Legendre, in today's restaurant environment, with a restaurant’s success so dependent on using modern culinary techniques, the Taillevent style seems both old-fashioned and without real inspiration. It’s a shame because I love the room. And the wine list is always a joy to browse. But if Vrinat doesn’t do something to revitalize the cuisine, this restaurant is slowly on its way to becoming a second Tour d’Argent. B-

Relais d'Auteuill – Wine lovers should head out to the far reaches of the 16th arrondissement as the list in this restaurant is spectacular. The food is more of a luxury bourgoise cuisine than real haute cuisine. Lobsters, fat Dover sole, thick turbots, and veal chops perfectly roasted and served with a mound of mushrooms. Preparations that are not too complex but which go perfectly with a wine list that is chock-full of goodies by growers like Raveneau and Chave. B-

L'Astrance – I can't think of another example where there is such a large disconnect between the raves that I hear and read, and my own level of enthusiasm for a restaurant. Some people simply love Pascal Barbot’s cuisine while I just don’t understand what the fuss is about. On my two visits he served us some fine ingredients: a tranch of lotte was really top quality. And some dishes are prepared with a deft hand. But raves? I can hardly understand why Michelin promoted this restaurant to two stars—in my opinion it is firmly entrenched between one and two—let alone Gault Millau giving it a score of 19/20. B-

Lobster Salad with Fennel at L’Astrance

Atelier de Joel Robuchon - I’m a fan of this luxury hotel bar restaurant which serves a one-star cuisine. Whether it is the chestnut soup with cubes of foie gras, or the pigeon and foie gras wrapped in cabbage, or just an order of cote d’agneau or entrecote cooked à la plancha and served with the famous pommes purée on the side, it’s an honest meal that is prepared well. Oddly enough, it is one of the few places in Paris where you can eat at this in-between price point. It does have its detractors who complain of the uncomfortable seating arrangements, the no-reservation policy, and the inconsistent food. But I've been there over a half dozen times, and my meals have mostly been enjoyable. An easy restaurant for people who are inexperienced at dining in France. I hear they are opening in New York, and if they maintain the quality it will be a good addition. C+ 

Cream of Watercress Soup with Foie Gras at Atelier de Robuchon

Table de Joel Robuchon - The same formula as Atelier, but with tables, chairs, and reservations. I actually prefer Atelier as it has a special vibe because you only eat at the counter. This seems more like an ordinary restaurant. Those snobs at Michelin gave this one the star. C+

Les Magnolias - There is a reason people are taking an 11 km train ride on the RER to eat at this small restaurant in the town of Le Perreux-sur-Marne. Chef Jean Chauvel prepares a whimsical cuisine using top-quality ingredients. He served us an aviron (rowboat) of foie gras in quince aspic, and the tuna smoked with herbs under a paper chef's toque was one of the more delicious dishes I had this year. Truly a one-star experience and an easy way to break up the monotony of all of those three star meals. Or a way to step up from bistro cuisine if that's what you fancy. C+

Tuna smoked with herbs under a paper chef's toque from Les Magnolias

                                Restaurants Reveiwed in Prior Years

Guy Savoy - Second tier among the three stars. Not a bad meal, just not trendsetting and not a terribly strong signature from the chef. B+

Lucas Carton - Coasting on their reputation, although there are people who claim it is still fabulous. Time for another visit. B

Comments

[mattyp]

Just one comment: Ducasse in New York has consistently been a much more interesting place to eat than Ducasse at Plaza Athenee, which is just like you say: dated. ADNY is refreshing precisely because it is French and not dated. France has a lot of great foods, but not as much great food.

[Andy Hayler]

Based on recent visits I understand some of your experiences but am surprised at some others. Gagnaire is definitely talented but inconsistent, with dishes in the same meal varying widely. Ambroisie is just as you say. Arpege can be up and own, but at its best is superb, with vegetables of stunning quality grown especially for the restaurant. Ledoyen has got much better recently. The first meal I had there was similar to yours, but one in May 2007 was fabulous, especially the flight of five desserts. Astrance is improving rapidly, and has very clear and pure flavours and some inventive dishes; as its menu changes daily I can see how it may be erratic. In my personal view of the Paris three stars, Grand Vefour is a relic and Pre Catalan very disappointing but otherwise there is excellent food to be had at each of the other 3 star places, with Guy Savoy perhaps being the least striking. Ducasse is hard to fault, while Ambroisie during truffle season is dazzling. Recently Meurice and Ledoyen have improved greatly. Arpege can be great but also off-key, which is hard to stomach given the price, and indeed Gagnaire has the same erratic quality. See www.andyhayler.com for detailed reviews and photos of these places.

[chef]

you are and idiot ,plain and simple find another vocation, you know nothing about food by your own admission , how can you not find pascal barbots cooking special ,you idiot ,idiot ,idiot, ever heard of unami?

[Gerard]

Could someone please explain to me why some of these parisian 3 star chefs have 3 stars?? First of all guy savoy compares his food to art ? Yet his restaurant and kitchen have no windows and no natural light present in the restaurant? Secondly I dont get how root vegetables stuffed on a vegetable aspic is related to art or to a 3 star dish. Presentation I know is second to flavor but should these guys at this level be making their presentation more refined , an example would be meurice or a great example is Per Se in NYC , great food and taste but the Chefs there show their talent for presentation which at the prices you pay in 3 star restaurants should be expected . L'astrance is also overrated ,people say it is relaxed, informal on my 2 visits it would be best described as lazy , the dishes at times are wrong and I could taste that powdered MSG on the proteins you know the kind they use in chinese restaurants and no it was not natural sourced unami, at this level this should not happen same case with gagnaire ,at this level and prices this should not happen. It seems if you can promote the michelin guide enough these days you will get the stars, guy savoy being an example, gordon ramsay another, it really questions the integrity of this mystery guide ,does it not release its judging criteria so it wont be judged or debated on a much larger scale? it also begs the question of why such so called great men and women or artists if you like want the accolades from this guide so much ,it is after all the artist who educates the critic ,should they not care about this guide and just do what they do ,it questions there integrity , Alan Senderens being an example of 1 who turned his back on the guide and is where you can get a great meal also.

[joyce singh]

What is 'unami'?